Ouray Ice Park Mixed Revival: Rediscovering Classic Mixed Routes in Colorado’s Ice Climbing Capital

Ouray Ice Park Mixed Revival: Rediscovering Classic Mixed Routes in Colorado’s Ice Climbing Capital

The Ouray Ice Park has long been a mecca for ice climbers from around the world. With reliable conditions, easy access, and a strong community, it’s one of the best places anywhere to learn and progress on ice. But beyond the familiar frozen curtains lies another side of the park—steep, technical mixed routes that combine ice and rock for a full-body challenge.

Over the past few seasons, local climbers have been reviving old competition lines and classic mixed routes, replacing corroded bolts with stainless-steel glue-ins designed to last for decades. The result: a revitalized selection of climbs that showcase the power and creativity of Ouray mixed climbing.

The School Room Cave: Under the Bleachers & Suspension

Behind the shimmering curtains of the School Room Cave, two re-equipped routes offer some of the most enjoyable mixed climbing in the park.

Under the Bleachers provides the friendlier introduction. Depending on how the School Room pillar forms each season, climbers can often begin stemming early before transitioning fully onto the ice.

Transfe

rring onto the pillar on Under the Bleachers

Right beside it, Suspension delivers a slightly greater test. This season’s variation involves tunneling and offwidthing through a narrow gap in the hanging curtain before topping out on easier ice. Both routes capture the playful, technical style that defines mixed climbing in Ouray.

Offwidth ice climbing on Suspension

Comp Route A: Old-School Steepness Beneath the Bridge

Directly below the upper bridge, Comp Route A climbs far better than its name suggests. Originally set for a competition, the line now boasts new bolts and clean rock—offering steep, engaging movement on positive hooks.

The route starts from a ledge halfway down the face and follows a left-leaning crack with solid tool placements but minimal rests. Some winters a bit of ice forms to allow stemming; other years it stays steep and sustained. Either way, it’s a rewarding challenge for those refining endurance and precision on steep mixed terrain.

Micah getting a much appreciated stem on Comp Route A

Fight Club, Swing Dance & Bridging the Gap

To the right of Le Pissior and beneath Chris’s Crash, the re-equipped Fight Club provides a balanced mix of steep moves and thoughtful tool placements—ideal for those building confidence on harder rock-to-ice transitions.

Farther downstream, below the lower bridge, two more lines have received new glue-ins. On the left, Swing Dance follows four bolts of positive hooks before joining the Boat Ramp Curtain and finishing at the bridge belay. To its right, Bridging the Gap adds endurance and variety. Linking the two makes for a longer, more sustained outing—perfect for training days in the Ice Park.

Micah Bridging the Gap

Super Dave: A True Ouray Mixed Classic

A bit farther downstream, Super Dave remains one of the park’s most respected traditional mixed climbs. The route combines steep, engaging movement with excellent gear and embodies the essence of Ouray mixed climbing.

Start on moderate ice to a comfortable ledge, then climb forty feet of steep, technical mixed terrain protected by solid cams. The moves are sustained but secure, rewarding careful placement and composure. For experienced leaders, it’s a satisfying, must-do line on any Ouray Ice Park tick list.

Micah following Super Dave